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  Later Myceneans again
Posted by: Phil Yates - 10-27-2014, 11:38 AM - Forum: Hobby & Painting - No Replies

Nothing new here so don't get excited. There have been enquiries on TMP on how to do Later Myceneans in 15mm but when I posted a link to the article I did on that the old forum had died.
So, apologies for posting this again and the episodic nature due to the original article being posted over the best part of a year. It is not entirely the same as I only saved bits of it on the PC, the rest I have re-hashed from memory.




I thought I would do this as an antidote to the depressing antics of painters like Kev (Fat Wally) who churn out hundreds of figures to an impossibly high standard seemingly overnight.
So, this is going to be an occasional report on how long it takes me to do the first army I have been allowed to start since 2004 and amaze you all with how long it takes to do so few figures to an OK standard.

The army will be Later Mycaenean. Up to now I have always done armies in pairs but being on a budget and the abundance of Biblical opponents at the club renders this un-necessary.
This is an army full of characters from the Iliad and I have always wanted to do these guys since I read the late Peter Connollys book “The Legend of Odysseus” and all the excellent illustrations that can also serve as a painting guide.

15mm ranges I looked at included Magister Militum, Museum Miniatures, Essex and Black Hat. The latter figures are too chunky for me and the rest mainly deal with armies from the Early Mycaenean period; lots of big tower shields and clothing limited to a kilt and charioteers in the big Dendra armour.
Luckily in 2011 I came across an article about the Old Glory range which said their figures were directly inspired by Connolly’s book. So, checked out the website and they were indeed exactly what was required. Only problem was OG don’t do them in the UK so they would have to come from the US which would have been a pain as the postage would have wiped out the savings made from them being cheaper than 15mm figures over here. However, my cousin lives in Conneticut at the moment and she was due back in the UK for a holiday so problem solved. I also picked up some of the range on e-bay which was quite lucky.



I have also decided to abandon my normal painting method, which involves a black lining technique, for something a bit faster and in recognition that my eyesight ain’t what it used to be as I now have to wear glasses to paint.
So, first time ever I am going to undercoat (heresy!!!) do a simple but accurate block painting job then use a wash to provide a bit of shading. White features quite prominently as clothing so I opted for a sepia wash of Future plus ink and tested on a couple of spare figures until happy with the ink/future ratio.

All ready to go in May but the figures from the US not due to arrive until late June so decided to start on some Magister Militum figures I was going to use as Nestor’s troops. According to the Iliad Nestor was the oldest of the Achaian kings who took part in the Trojan War and he kept going on about how things were done in his day and apparently his troops fought in the old style. So, a couple of units of Heavy Foot supported by Light archers which could be useful as the rest of the army is Medium Foot.



[Image: DSCN5841Small_zpsdaeffad4.jpg]



Another change was the basing as on the whole most of my basing has been simple flocking but I wanted a more arid look to these bases and a chance to do better than I normally do. Guilty as charged of being a wargamer who spends vast amounts of time painting the blighters and minimum time given over to basing.
I use the excellent MDF bases from ERM to mount the figures then cover the base with a layer of coloured Tetrion filler. Once that is set I placed a few larger rocks randomly onto some of the bases then covered with PVA and sprinkled with a mixture of finely ground oyster shells, sand and grit; a technique I picked up from the Fisticuffs show in Weymouth.
Once that was all dried I did a random selection of patches of ground with a sepia ink wash then dry brushed with a shade of Hessian emulsion from the Dulux test pots range. Another tip from the chaps in Weymouth as those test pots are a lot cheaper than a modelling paint.
Finally added a few tufts of plant life here and there and all done.

Still some time left before the rest of the army showed up so did two more units from the figures I got from e-bay, one of slingers and the other archers.



[Image: DSCN5899Small_zps1150065a.jpg]



[Image: DSCN5902Small_zpsceb73ffa.jpg]



Medium foot form the bulk of this army, and also many biblical armies according to FOG, so four units of eight bases. These count as protected so very little body armour except the universal linen greaves and a mixture of bronze and boars tusk helmets. A variety of shields as well especially “figure of eights”, slightly smaller towers and the “circular” bossed shields more typically Later Mycenean.


[Image: DSCN6080Small_zpsd7e3453a.jpg]


All count as spearmen and I have kept the tunics quite simple, with few coloured borders, as I imagine these would be less well off citizens. These figures are the Old Glory Light Spearmen pack; to avoid confusion what I think of as light spearmen(psiloi) are the Old Glory Javelinmen packs.



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[Image: DSCN6079Small_zps510440a8.jpg]



Next up were some armoured spearmen and the Myrmidons, also armoured, so these came from the Old Glory Heavy Infantry pack.
All are armoured and most have tunics with coloured borders but otherwise the same as the protected spearmen. Fielded as two units of six bases which is quite small but armoured foot in this period is quite rare so that might help them survive.



[Image: DSCN0003Small_zpsbe030a66.jpg]




Achilles’ Myrmidons are also six bases strong but also armoured and Superior in FOG so that helps. Also they fight differently and are classified as Swordsmen. I suspect the theory behind this is that Achilles himself “with his blonde hair and brutal practices that shocked his Greek friends”(Connolly) comes from a different culture.
Figures also from the Heavy Infantry pack culling most of the sword armed figures for the Myrmidons.





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Almost the end of January so running behind schedule, but still way ahead of where I would be if using my old fashioned techniques. I had a really long Christmas break, for the first time since I left school, at the in-laws which was very nice but meant no painting possible.

So, two units of javelinmen which were dead easy. I mis-calculated here and didn’t have enough OG figures so had to supplement with Essex which are limited to one pose and are a bit shorter, the latter problem dealt with by a bit of card stuck under the figure before basing.



[Image: DSCN0005Small_zpsf793f3ca.jpg]



Then two units of dismounted charioteers which could be useful in a game if the terrain is not favourable to mounted. Same basic figures as before so not that easy to distinguish from armoured spearmen even though I gave them all tunics with borders and made all their shield rims and bosses bronze which these scions of the nobility can afford.




[Image: DSCN0003Small_zpsbe030a66.jpg]




Next up is the glamour arm of the army, the mounted charioteers. Lots of fiddly wheels and delicate harness poles to clean up which is a pain. Not an excess of flash, just lots of nooks and crannies for it to accumulate in.
The chariots form my only major gripe with Old Glory, even though I knew before buying them there was a problem. No yokes! Apparently all OG chariots do not come with yokes which is a major omission which they have not sought to rectify despite being aware of this long before I bought any of their figures. Relatively easy to scratchbuild them of course, but that’s not the point.
The last chariots I did were much simpler Donnington Galatians over 15 years ago so no idea how long this will take but the end is in sight as after this lot only the generals and camp to go.


Chariots now done and dusted.


[Image: DSCN0035Small_zps426d29a3.jpg]


As expected a wee bit fiddly but nothing too taxing. These are, on the whole, the lighter rail chariots rather than the heavier box chariots used by the Early Myceneans and Minoans and are constucted of wood and hide. Usual mix of chestnuts, light and dark bays, blacks and the odd dun or grey thrown in for the horses. I briefly toyed with the idea of making reins as the drivers look odd with their hands thrust out holding nothing but that would have been very fiddly and probably not robust enough for gaming.

I had some of the Chariot Miniatures figures from someone selling them cheap at the club which are of the earlier period including warriors wearing the old fashioned Dendra panoply. This will be “Nestor’s squadron” as he was the king who supplied the infantry fighting the old fashioned way I mentioned earlier.
Nice figures these, cleaner castings than OG, but the horses don’t look right. I know at this period the horses were more likely to be ponies but they look out of proportion. I also commented on the lack of yokes for the OG chariots but these are way too big.


[Image: DSCN0041Small_zps93dd843c.jpg]


Old Glory by comparison were a little more delicate looking but have proven quite robust with no breakages, are in proportion and come with a mix of charioteers but only one driver casting. The central pole is not quite right as it hangs in the air at the top rather than connecting back to the chariot body but again too fiddly to fix that. The yokes were made from florist wire turned up at each end then bent in the middle. The only thing I could not replicate was the varying thickness of a yoke but they will do.

[Image: DSCN0047Small_zps60e6052e.jpg]


Next up, for the final leg, are the commanders chariots and the camp to finish. Chariots should be straightforward but the camp will need a little scratchbuilding if what I have in mind works out.



So, here we are at the end of this project. First up the commanders chariots. OG have a seperate command pack but the annoying thing is that despite their range being Late Mycenean two of the four commanders come with the Dendra panoply from the earlier Mycenean/Minoan period. I had to find two spare armoured figures which could fit in the chariot as the proper charioteers come with much smaller bases.
There is not much detail to separate Generals from ordinary charioteers so I swapped around the horses to make sure each pair had a chest piece which could be painted gold or silver to provide some distinguishing mark. Achilles is already on foot ready to get at the enemy ( mainly because his was a spare figure not suited to fit in the chariot) and is the only blonde in the army! I gave Agamemnon a nice purple chariot with ivory inlay( as he’s rich) but Diomedes and Odysseus are in bog standard vehicles. I did however paint the edges of the bases to help identify the commanders if they ever get stuck in which in true Homeric fashion they should do every game.

[Image: DSCN0054Small_zpsb8948081.jpg]


As with all my armies the last thing to do is the camp. Most of my Ancient armies are still using the old DBM individual bases camps but I have been using “diorama” style bases since FOGR and the Dark Age armies I upgraded from WRG 6th to FOG last year.
The obvious theme for this army is a Trojan Horse which I have seen used by other players to good effect but I wanted something that looked like a camp. So, back to Homer and Connolly and you come up with a ditch and palisade and the “black ships” drawn up on the beach.

First thing was a base to sculpt the height needed for the nearside of the ditch and palisade then sloping down the beach. The old standby of polystyrene mounted on card then use of a hot wire ( candle and paperclip) to get the slope. Bamboo skewers cut to size and shape then inserted into the polystyrene with PVA glue to form the palisade.
Galley sterns needed next and the old wargamers hoarding instincts kicked in here as a friend of mine once found, about ten years ago, a couple of waterline resin galleys at a car boot sale which he gave to me and have been in a drawer ever since. Felt a bit of a vandal but needs must and out came the hacksaw and off came the sterns. I used milliput to form the hulls below the waterline then fixed them, after painting, to the base adding a couple of timber props as per Connolly’s illustration. Next up were a couple of shelters, one on a galley deck and the other on the beach, made from florists wire and tissue paper coated in a thin PVA solution.
The rest of the equipment and workers (from Donnington) were painted then added to the base or decks along with two spare OG archers manning the palisade.
Being on the beach I wanted a different look to the base than the main army. I used a slightly coarser GW modelling sand for the area around the palisade as theoretically you can’t really build a ditch/palisade in sand so wanted a more “earthy” look. I then blended in a much finer bird sand going down the beach to look more like….. a beach! I used various dark and lighter washes to vary the colour then Hessian as a final drybrush as per the rest of the bases.


[Image: DSCN4061Small_zps16c76cf0.jpg]



[Image: DSCN4064Small_zps33786886.jpg]


So, that’s it. Ten months and 304 infantry, 24 chariots and a camp later. Certainly the quickest time it has ever taken me to complete an army, which is all down to the changes in technique. And, despite being quicker and cutting a few corners, I am quite happy with how they turned out and as Kev L said right at the beginning, decent basing goes some way to making an army look acceptable.

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  28mm Guilford Courthouse December 7th
Posted by: Phil Yates - 10-27-2014, 11:36 AM - Forum: Organise a game - Replies (3)

Bloodyback




Joined: 04 Jun 2014
Posts: 34

[Image: icon_minipost.gif]Posted: 15 Sep 2014 04:39 pm    Post subject: 28mm Guilford Courthouse December 7th
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Having now done Monmouth and both parts of the Brandywine scenario so far this year, I would like to try and get Guilford Courthouse in before Xmas if possible.

I intend to use the original scenario from the rulebook, (so I have enough figures [Image: icon_biggrin.gif] ) which can accommodate a maximum of 8 players. (However it may be better to limit this to six so that the Continental Commanders don't spend all day waiting for something to happen) I am happy to sit out and umpire this one so initially there are six spots up for grabs.

If you would like to join in, please let me know and also give me an idea of which club meeting(s) would suit you best.
GCH can be quite a long winded scrap so a 10am-6pm meeting is probably best.

Interested parties so far:

1.) Mick
2.) Kev (Smithy1854)
3.) John (Duns.scotus)
4.) Kev (Fat Wally)
5.) Dave Yeates
6.) Brendan
7.) Paul Marsh
8.) Darren

Andy

Last edited by Bloodyback on 20 Oct 2014 07:42 am; edited 7 times in total
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[/url]Fat Wally



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Posted: 15 Sep 2014 06:35 pm    Post subject:
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[Image: icon_eek.gif] Definitely up for that please. [Image: icon_biggrin.gif]

[Image: icon_smile.gif]

Kev
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[/url]Dave Yeates



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Posted: 15 Sep 2014 06:43 pm    Post subject:
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Hello andy I be up for that and a thank you for a great game
Saturday and a great laugh as well but yes to Guilford
Cheers Dave y
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[/url]Smithy1854
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Posted: 15 Sep 2014 08:47 pm    Post subject:
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Count me in please, what about dec 7th... It's an all day meeting, just a thought.
Cheers Kev
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[/url]BrendanM
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Posted: 16 Sep 2014 12:24 pm    Post subject:
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I'll take that last place, if it's still available.

If you wanted to do the revised version, which I think is 1:10 rather than 1:20, I can help out with some painted/based figures. I have:

BRITISH
- 147 British infantry, based in 4s and 6s, including a battalion each of lights, grenadiers, and highlanders, and some skirmishers
- 5 British commanders (all singly based)

AMERICANS
- 84 Continentals and Militia, based in 6s and 4s respectively
- 8 light dragoons
- 3 commanders (a three, a two and a single)
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[/url]duns.scotus



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Posted: 16 Sep 2014 01:24 pm    Post subject:
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Hi Andy, would love to play this. 7th December would be good. I am supposed to be organising Edgehill for FOGR on 8th November but this could be moved if necessary.
Cheers
John
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[/url]Bloodyback



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Posted: 16 Sep 2014 03:11 pm    Post subject:
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Brendan,

I will have a look at the revised scenario and see if its feasible. Main hiccup I can see is the British Legion cavalry horde. I do have the 16th Light Dragoons to paint though.......

Andy
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[/url]Bloodyback



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Posted: 18 Sep 2014 09:16 am    Post subject:
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December 7th it is.

Andy

PS: Theoretically, we can squeeze in two more players if we need to.
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[/url]Paul Marsh



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Posted: 22 Sep 2014 04:40 pm    Post subject:
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If you can squeeze another in could I take a place please?

Done GCH many times in 15mm but 28mm would be a treat.
As the regulars know I prefer to be British but needs must to get a game...
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[/url]Bloodyback



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Posted: 22 Sep 2014 06:07 pm    Post subject:
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You're in Paul. [Image: icon_biggrin.gif]

Andy
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[/url]Bloodyback



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Posted: 10 Oct 2014 05:10 pm    Post subject:
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I have now had time to look at the revised GCH scenario in detail now and unfortunately I am seriously short of the American infantry figures required for it.
I need an additional 2 x 24 strong Militia regiments, 2 x 16 strong Continental regiments and 2 x 20 strong Continental regiments.

If anyone is able to help with these, that would be great, (Brendan, I know you have maybe two thirds of the required numbers [Image: icon_smile.gif] ). Otherwise, we will have to do the original 1:20 scale scenario.


Andy
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[/url]BrendanM
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Posted: 10 Oct 2014 09:35 pm    Post subject:
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Andy,

You're welcome to use whatever I have. However, I am hoping to meet someone at SELWG on Sunday who is gradually getting rid of his old AWI collection (metal Foundry) and replacing them with Perry plastics and newer metals. He may have some more bits and pieces he wants to sell off, and if so I can offer them a good home!

I'l get back in touch later next week with the outcome.
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[/url]May Contain Nuts



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Posted: 12 Oct 2014 03:02 pm    Post subject:
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Hi Andy
I can't believe I've let the opportunity slip by! If there's still room can you squeeze me in please? Darren
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[/url]Bloodyback



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Posted: 20 Oct 2014 07:41 am    Post subject:
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Darren,

I'll try and squeeze you in somehow.

Andy

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  Game 9th Nov ?
Posted by: Phil Yates - 10-27-2014, 11:35 AM - Forum: Organise a game - No Replies

Karl

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[Image: icon_minipost.gif]Posted: 23 Oct 2014 08:26 pm    Post subject: Game 9th Nov ?
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Anyone up for a game or room for one more ?

Cheers Karl
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[/url]Major Steve



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Posted: 24 Oct 2014 10:47 am    Post subject:
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Hi Karl,

Do you mean 8th Nov? You are most welcome to join us 28mm lads, but at present uncertain what we are doing. Steve.
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[/url]Karl
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Posted: 24 Oct 2014 11:32 am    Post subject:
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Yeh 8th, that would be great Steve.

If you guys decide to do ww2 let me know have freshly painted US force I can bring along.

Cheers Karl.
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[/url]Major Steve



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Posted: 24 Oct 2014 08:14 pm    Post subject:
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Hi Karl,

We will probably decide at the end of tomorrows game. I will suggest WW2.

Steve.
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[/url]Major Steve



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Posted: 25 Oct 2014 09:25 pm    Post subject:
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Hi Karl,

Bring your Rookie Yanks, we will bed them in........ in our Brecourt Manor Assault. You can Google it to see the plan.

Steve.
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Posted: 26 Oct 2014 04:32 pm    Post subject:
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Excellent. See you on the 8th.

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  General Brigade - 28mm Napoleonic Game
Posted by: Phil Yates - 10-27-2014, 11:34 AM - Forum: Organise a game - Replies (2)

Alec Duncan is organising a 28mm Napoleonic game on the 8th November.

Anyone interested in taking part please respond on this site.

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  British Civil War Game - Sunday 7th December
Posted by: Phil Yates - 10-27-2014, 11:34 AM - Forum: Organise a game - Replies (2)

Nationalist or Communist?

Celtic freedom-fighter or upholder of democracy?
I am organising a 20mm 1938 British Civil War game on the 7th of December.
Interested in being a member of the Eton Rifles or riding the Eton elephant?

Please let me know if you are interested in joining in,

Graham Holmes

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  FoG(R) - Royalists v Parliamentarians 1643
Posted by: Phil Yates - 10-27-2014, 11:33 AM - Forum: Historical - No Replies

Paul Marsh and I played an 850-point FoG game on Sunday.


My Royalists comprised 6 Cavalier BGs (4 superior, 2 average), 7 foot BGs, 1 dragoon BG and 2 light guns. Paul's Parliamentarians consisted of 6 horse BGs (1 of them Lobsters) plus 2 commanded shot units, 1 dragoon BG, 2 medium guns, and 8 foot BGs of which 2 had pike and the other 6 were all shot. I had a C-in-C and 2 troop commanders, Paul had four troop commanders. Terrain was limited to a small enclosure and some uneven ground on my far right; a large enclosure on my far left, next to which was a steep hill stretching 1/3 of the way into the table; and a small enclosure on Paul's baseline. Other than that, the battlefield was all open ground - perfect for my Cavaliers. Paul deployed first (I won the initiative) and split his horse 3:2 (left and right) with the Lobsters in reserve; the 2 commanded shot units supported his left and his dragoons held the large enclosure on his right; the two pike-and-shot BGs were inside his left flank cavalry, and the 6 all-shot BGs and his guns occupied the centre and right (behind the hill). His deployment and the terrain led me to place 4 of my Cavalier BGs in the centre and the other 2 on my far left; 2 foot BGs and the dragoons held my right flank, with my guns in the centre in front of a large body of foot (5 BGs).

And so to Turn 1. Which is where it all started to go horribly wrong for me.....

Paul admitted to panicking slightly when he saw my unconventional deployment (cavalry in the centre, foot on the flanks) and tried to redeploy his pike-and shot BGs to the centre and move his right flank cavalry further out; but he needn't have worried. It's said no plan survives first contact with the enemy; mine didn't survive the removal of my tape measure from my dice box. My first mistake was to put the dragoons on the wrong flank; my second was to change my original plan to charge the left flank of Paul's all-shot brigade, and instead move 3 of the 4 BGs of my main cavalry body towards my right, to deal with Paul's left wing horse; my third mistake was to move my massive foot brigade forward first rather than my left wing horse, which blocked the latter's passage through the narrow gap between the large enclosure on the left edge of the table and the steep hill in front of my left centre to threaten his inferior horse and the right flank of his all-shot units.

I charged Paul's left wing horse, but he held my 2 front rank Cavalier BGs, and one of his pike-and-shot BGs shot up, then later charged, one of them in the flank, whilst my third unit in reserve dithered over whether to charge the one unengaged Roundhead horse BG, or the offending infantry. My dragoons advanced into the uneven ground on his flank and drew off the unengaged horse unit, leading to several turns of ineffectual exchanges of firing but nothing more. Eventually, we each had one horse unit rout - unfortunately, in my case it was my stronger unit which left an open flank. My reserve BG, average Cavaliers, finally charged his supporting pike-and-shot BG and killed it, but then pursued it to death, which left my lads flank on, directly in the path of his Lobsters and an all-shot unit that had gotten into the enclosure on his baseline.

Meanwhile, in the centre, I foolishly charged my one remaining Cavalier BG at Paul's all-shot brigade and they were all shot (memo to self: possible clue in the name). My infantry then moved over the steep hill which, despite being able to use brigade moves, took most of the game. His shot moved forward and engaged them as they (finally) marched down the other side: outnumbered 4:3 in BGs, but more importantly 24:6 in firing dice (my BGs were musket* and disordered by the steep hill), I luckily managed to avoid fatal losses until just before I was ready to charge when all three units suddenly went disordered, then fragmented in quick succession, despite shooting one of his BGs off the table.

On the left, one foot unit had - rather unexpectedly given that their limited shooting was further reduced by being "nervous" at finding themselves within 12" of the table edge - shot his dragoons off the table, whilst another had moved around the steep hill and engaged his two regiments of horse (which exchanged carbine fire - both were ineffectual). At this point, my left wing horse were perfectly poised to outflank Paul's all-shot brigade (especially as the rightmost unit had fled), but unfortunately the rest of my army had pretty much melted away in a storm of shooting. I had lost 8/15 BGs, with two more fragmented and needing only one more hit. Paul had lost 5/18, with two more disordered, but with generals in support to restore them.

I would just like to say that I was unlucky and that Paul having an extra troop commander and 3 BGs gave him the degree of flexibility that won him the game. But I can't, because they didn't (although in fairness he did handle his army well enough to have fresh BGs waiting each time I routed one of his - a couple of his units even crept a few inches onto my side of the table!). Frankly, the only thing that kept me in the game after my initial mistakes and consequent losses, was Paul's amazingly abysmal dice throws - whilst I got more than my share of hits with my miserly musketry allowances, and did well on death rolls, Paul must have lost at least 10 bases on a death roll of only 1, and on three occasions he missed with 8 dice needing 4/5/6 to kill. In the end, a comfortable - and deserved - win for the Roundies.

A big thank you to Paul for organising the game at short notice, and providing all the troops and terrain (not to mention an encyclopedic knowledge of the rules) .

Ronan the librarian

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  Generic French Line Infantry Brigade 1812-1814
Posted by: Phil Yates - 10-27-2014, 11:31 AM - Forum: Hobby & Painting - No Replies

(as shown on the old website)


In late 2013 I decided to aim for wargaming. I visit the club a couple of times and paint a few units to play.

=> I had to paint faster.

I picked Calpe Miniatures as they have so much variety of poses (to avoid boredom). They also wear the greatcoat, which means less many details to paint. I experimented washes and no longer paint eyes.

[Image: 140619030946355614.jpg]

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Currently I am finishing the 4th battalion (there are 2 regiments of 2 battalions). Each unit is 25-strong (24 men+a standard bearer which I like to stand out of the mass)

100 minis painted in 8 months? that's record breaking by my standard [Image: icon_biggrin.gif]

More photos on this later...
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Posted: 19 Jun 2014 10:05 pm    Post subject:
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Fantastic looking figs.

Look forward to seeing them on the table.

Thanks for posting.
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Posted: 20 Jun 2014 09:04 am    Post subject:
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I also look forward to seeing them on a gaming table!

But I'll have a couple of issues to wrap up this project shortly. Calpe Miniatures is a small business, and if their range is extremely detailed, it expands slowly. The skirmishers are not planned for soon... though brigade command packs have been announced as a medium term release.

So I hope they will release a command pack by the end of the year, but as far as skirmishers are concerned...

wait & see [Image: icon_smile.gif] I'm patient...
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Posted: 27 Jun 2014 08:49 pm    Post subject:
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and here's an overview of the 4th battalion, before basing. I've got a lot of varnishing/basing to do now!

[Image: 140627105334708071.jpg]
[Image: 140627105336111094.jpg]
[Image: 140627105337305211.jpg]
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Posted: 31 Aug 2014 05:59 pm    Post subject:
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not much time for the hobby this summer. Holidays, DIY, baby duties... but at least battalions are now based. I've added magnetised tape under the bases for future transports.

[Image: 140831080352945028.jpg]

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[Image: 140831080356138908.jpg]

[Image: 140831080357690842.jpg]

they're ready for some 1st blood at the club I think [Image: icon_smile.gif]
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Posted: 31 Aug 2014 11:19 pm    Post subject:
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Great work.
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[/url]Law



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Posted: 07 Sep 2014 02:00 pm    Post subject:
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looking really good

Law
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[/url]Fat Wally



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Posted: 08 Sep 2014 07:09 pm    Post subject:
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Cor....

Thems is lovely.....

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  WW2 US Infantry
Posted by: Phil Yates - 10-27-2014, 11:29 AM - Forum: Hobby & Painting - Replies (1)

Karl

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[Image: icon_minipost.gif]Posted: 07 Aug 2014 10:48 pm    Post subject: WW2 US infantry
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29 Let's Go
[Image: 14667055178_5b20fbca4d_z.jpg]
Untitled by karlwilliam1975, on Flickr
[Image: 14850595281_77b8481cc5_z.jpg]
Untitled by karlwilliam1975, on Flickr
First squad painted of what will be a full platoon and some heavy weapons and a few vehicles.

Painted these quite quickly by changing my method. Very pleased with the result.
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Posted: 08 Aug 2014 02:32 pm    Post subject:
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nice job!
what's the manufacturer?
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[/url]Karl
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Posted: 08 Aug 2014 06:53 pm    Post subject:
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Thanks,

There plastic US infantry from warlord games/bolt action.
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Posted: 09 Aug 2014 05:37 pm    Post subject:
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great work mate.

What rules set you planning to use them for?
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[/url]Fat Wally



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Posted: 10 Aug 2014 05:16 pm    Post subject:
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Very nice indeed. Lovely basing too.
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Posted: 10 Aug 2014 10:18 pm    Post subject:
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Thanks guys

The plan for for these is to play chain of command. But I also have bolt action rules as well. And plan to make it so I have options to play either.

Another photo of some pin markers I've made. Got the idea from bobs game at bovvy. Made them with the left over bits on the sprues.
[Image: 14880118622_396db87500_z.jpg]
image by karlwilliam1975, on Flickr
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[/url]Fat Wally



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Posted: 11 Aug 2014 06:41 am    Post subject:
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Now that is a great idea. Lovely stuff. I can see that really adding something visually to a game.

Kev
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Posted: 11 Aug 2014 07:07 pm    Post subject:
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This could get expensive! TFL has just released some free rules for big COC adding extra platoons of infantry or vehicles to your games.

http://toofatlardies.co.uk/blog/?p=3013
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Posted: 14 Aug 2014 04:22 pm    Post subject:
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Let me know when they are ready.

I have some Germans that are available for target practice.
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Posted: 14 Aug 2014 10:03 pm    Post subject:
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Those are very nice, Karl. The markers are inspired, too.
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Posted: 15 Aug 2014 09:58 pm    Post subject:
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Very very nice mate ..
justneed you to start on your Brit Nap stuff so you can take on meee yanks ! [Image: icon_smile.gif]
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Posted: 03 Sep 2014 06:09 pm    Post subject:
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[Image: 15097940616_ab735882f4_c.jpg]
Us by karlwilliam1975, on Flickr
Officer NCO and medic. Just a few nights away from finishing the whole platoon highlighting the last squad now [Image: icon_smile.gif]
Just relised I've put my rank chevrons on upside down, on the whole damn platoon as well [Image: icon_sad.gif] why do the yanks have to always be different !
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Posted: 03 Sep 2014 06:28 pm    Post subject:
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Very Nice Karl. Where did you get the transfers ad rank chevrons, as I'am doing some US Marines.
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Posted: 03 Sep 2014 07:50 pm    Post subject:
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Cheers Steve.

Got them from here http://www.thewcp.co.uk/shop.php

Or try warlord games they do quite a few as well.
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Posted: 03 Sep 2014 10:07 pm    Post subject:
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really good work again! the highlighting is very nicely done. how do you base them? Is that glue + sand, or some time of filler?
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  Fat Wally's Magic Wash Recipe
Posted by: Phil Yates - 10-27-2014, 11:28 AM - Forum: Hobby & Painting - No Replies

Recently a couple of club members have asked about my Magic Wash recipe. Its on my website under Painting Services but a couple have said they can't open it....So, here it is.....


Kev’s Magic Wash

I'm not a fan of Army Painter generally. I prefer a black wash not a brown one, or even a dark brown one. Black offers a greater contrast between colours but does make the figures look perhaps a bit cartoony for some people. Then again all my figures use it.

I don't like AP for 15's particularly as it doesn't flow, even when you try to thin it with turps. Then it goes gloopy, the tin gets gunged, and you end up chucking the residual bit making it even more expensive.

I do make and use, and much prefer, my own 'magic wash'. I've been using it for at least ten years now though some of my painting service customers ask for AP finish to fit with their existing collections.

I use Pledge Multi-Surface Wax (which used to be called Klear in the UK, Future in the US). You can get it in larger Robert Dyas, Tesco and Sainsbury's or even Amazon.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Pledge-Klear-Mu ... urface+wax

Its a milky acrylic carrier which is much better than AP at sticking to the crevices and is the consistency of milk. It also dries in half an hour so no need to wait overnight. The link below tells you how to make it.

http://www.paintingclinic.com/clinic/gu ... icwash.htm

I use Windsor and Newton, or Dr Ph. Martin’s Bombay, black ink with my mix and tend to knock up a whole Coffee jar sized mix which lasts months. I base my figures on sand and glue textured bases and I actually dip the entire base with figures mounted in the mix. This seals the base and figures and as it is thinner than AP runs away easily off the figure onto the sand.

I usually dilute the Pledge 50:50 to start with water, topping up with water, or Pledge, as the level diminishes over time through use. The more Pledge the less surface tension and consequently the more flow.

Start off with 2/3 of a 100g coffee jar size and add about 1/4 of a 14ml Windsor & Newton ink pot. Try it on a test figure. If it’s too dark add more water/Pledge. If it’s not dark enough add a few drops more of ink, until you get there. Eventually you'll get to the stage where you can tell almost by looking, when it’s right.

I use a grey undercoat now and using the magic wash on it makes the details jump out before you get round to painting. I the use it after the figure is painted too so my stuff gets it twice. As with AP its a good idea to add a highlight after a wash to increase 'pop', particularly to plumes etc.

Another tip. When you've got it right, don't shake the container but give it a good stir before using it each time.

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  Fat Wally's Removable Flags
Posted by: Phil Yates - 10-27-2014, 11:27 AM - Forum: Hobby & Painting - No Replies

Another article you might find useful, removable flags.


1) Basically cut out the flag. I mostly use flags that I've obtained free on the net.

2) Use a Pritt/glue stick and then fold the flag around a needle. I use an old cork with a needle stuck sharp pointy end in as my flag folding device.

3) Once this is done slide the flag off the needle and set aside to dry. Don't fold into shapes yet!

4) Once dry trim off any excess white bits that are obvious and paint the edges so that there is no white showing.

5) When this is dry, gloss varnish the flag. This is vital. It stops the print flaking off when you try to fold it (but don't fold it yet see step 6)

6) Allow to dry fully.

5) Now typically Peter Pig staves, and lots of other manufacturers too, are not long enough for the flags. Cut off the finial and stick it in the top end of your flag.

6) Put the flag back on the needle and create the folds. The flag is quite stiff, but not too stiff so you can be quite brutal as the varnish should stop the paint flaking off.

7) Slide back on the figures flag stave. The flag should be stiff enough to not damage and easy enough to remove.

[Image: icon_cool.gif] When you varnish the figure with Matt spray, or brush on, make sure you do the flag too. It might need a couple of coats.

9) A really nice touch is to add bullet holes. Simply heat another needle (stuck in a cork, but blunt end first) until its glowing orange hot. I use the gas cooker. Push the pointy end into the flag and waggle it about. it will burn through with a hole looking like a bullet has gone through. Try to do it through the hole both sides. You can also fray the trailing edge of the flag by doing the same. Its a nice touch. See pic below for example.

http://s1238.photobucket.com/user/KLowt ... ort=3&o=12

Hope that helps too.

Cheers,

Kev

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